Amaryllis Growing Instructions
New Gardeners, Start Here
If gardening is a new interest, you've chosen the right place to begin. Amaryllis deliver huge, brilliant flowers, in abundance and in lots of jazzy color combinations. Some are even fragrant. They are also among the easiest plants to grow. The amaryllis offered here don't need any special cooling or conditioning and will come back year after year. Let the fun begin!
Outdoor Beds
Many people don't think of outdoor garden sites when they consider amaryllis. But for enormous blooms, year after year, these plants really earn their keep. Showcase 5 - 7 bulbs on either side of your front door for a display that assurances tremendous curb appeal and will please you every time you step out of the car.
1. Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5 - 6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2 - 3 inches to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available.
2. Site your amaryllis where they will receive sun for all, or most, of the day. Dig holes and plant the bulbs with an inch of the bulb above the soil surface. (The top of the bulb is the part that looks a little like the stem area of an onion.)
3. Amaryllis may be planted from September through April in warm weather climates. The bulbs will develop roots as the tops sprout. Sometimes flower stalks will even develop in the fall. In mid spring, the sturdy flower stems will be topped with buds that will pop open to reveal numerous individual flowers. (Kings Court Christmas amaryllis will typically flower 30 - 40 days from planting, regardless of the season in which that occurs.)
4. After your amaryllis have bloomed, cut off the spent flower stalks. The foliage is evergreen in warm climates and will continue to grow in your garden. Water as needed to keep moist through the growing cycle, typically once a week.
Incredible Pots, Tubs & Urns
Amaryllis add a quality to containers that few plants can match. Their great size, unusual flower forms, luscious colors and fanciful markings capture the attention of all.
1. Choose your containers with an understanding that big amaryllis bulbs develop very large, heavy flowers. To keep bulbs that are in full flower from toppling over, select pots, tubs or urns that weight several pounds each when empty. Or add some weight in the form of rocks or sand to the bottom of the containers.
2. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; the bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot.
3. Site the containers where they will receive sun for all, or most, of the day.
4. Plant your amaryllis close to each other, with shoulders about an inch apart, for the most brilliant display. Tuck them in so that the top inch of the bulb is left above the soil surface. (The top of the bulb is the part that looks a little like the stem area of an onion.)
5. Water well, thoroughly soaking the soil. After the initial watering, wait to add more moisture until after you see stem and/or leaf growth to prevent overwatering. The bulbs will develop roots as the tops sprout. Sometimes flower stalks will even develop in the fall. In mid spring, the sturdy flower stems will be topped with buds that will pop open to reveal numerous individual flowers. If you like, take pots indoors in the spring, where light and temperatures are less intense; this often extends the blooming period. (Kings Court Christmas amaryllis will flower 35-40 days from planting, regardless of the season in which that occurs.)
6. When blooming is finished, cut off the flower stems. The foliage is evergreen in warm climates and will continue to grow. Water as needed to keep moist through the growing cycle, typically once a week.
Amaryllis Indoors
1. Choose your containers thoughtfully. Big amaryllis bulbs develop very large, heavy flowers. To keep bulbs that are in full flower from toppling over, select pots, tubs or urns that weight several pounds each, empty. Or add some weight in the form of rocks or sand to the bottom of the containers.
2. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; the bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot.
3. Site the containers where they will receive sun or bright direct light for all or most of the day.
4. Plant your amaryllis singly in pots that are a bit snug, ones with diameters 1” - 2” larger than that of the bulbs. For several amaryllis bulbs in the same container, plant close to each other with shoulders about an inch apart for the most brilliant display. Tuck them in so that the top inch of the bulb is left above the soil surface. (The top of the bulb is the part that looks a little like the stem area of an onion.)
5. Water well, thoroughly soaking the soil. After the initial watering, wait to add more moisture until after you see stem and/or leaf growth to prevent overwatering. Bulbs will begin developing roots and top growth quickly. Flowers develop in weeks; see specific timelines for each variety, but remember that Mother Nature often chooses her own timing with amaryllis. Feel free to move heavily budded or blooming plants to interior locations to better appreciate the display.
6. When blooming is finished, cut off the flower stems. The foliage is evergreen and will continue to grow. Water as needed to keep moist through the growing cycle, typically once a week.
Potted amaryllis may be moved to the garden. If you decide to plant your bulb in the garden, handle the roots with care. Your plant relies on these roots to absorb water and nutrients; breaking them off will leave your plant hungry and thirsty.
7. To encourage amaryllis to flower indoors in subsequent Christmas holiday seasons, follow these instructions:
- Keep the bulbs in their pots during the spring, summer and early fall. Provide a little water-soluble fertilizer periodically and avoid letting the soil dry out.
- In early to mid September move the amaryllis to a dark location and withhold water. This will prompt the bulbs to slip into dormancy
- About 4 or 6 weeks after the beginning of the forced dormancy period bring your amaryllis back into the light and begin watering again with a water-soluble fertilizer. This will encourage new growth. Then treat your bulbs as outlined in points 1-6, above.
- After its first flowering, your amaryllis may require extra time to reach the blooming stage. Allow 45 - 60 days.